Having only done 4 routes previously at Fairhead I had been psyched to get back ever since that first trip back in July 2004. After John Dunne’s megga route “Divided Years”, climbed in 1995 and given the lofty grade of E10, climbing in Ireland returned from its brief position in the climbing limelight to underground roots. Until recently. In 2007 a group of young and talented Irish climbers took extensive home video footage of their adventurous antics, including a number of bold and notable ascents throughout the country. The climax of the video is the nail bighting footage of Ricky Bell’s first ascent of “The Complete Scream” E8 6b. Ben Heason looking small (but brave) on a big, big, wall.. Having enjoyed a number of bold and technical routes in my time, my eye was drawn to the route. But having broken my ankle in February, and not having climbed a single trad route since last November, it seemed a tall order, and was therefore not on my agenda for the week long trip in May – after all, it’d probably just rain the whole time anyway… The first few days was spent ticking classics, remembering how to place wires, enjoying the superb rock and the serene atmosphere of the crag, pinching ourselves daily as we awoke to yet another fine albeit windy day. With super classics such as Marconi (E3), GBH (E3), Salango (E3), Face Value (E4), Track of the Cat (E4), Buttons and Bows (E4), Rusty Halo (E4), Wall of Prey (E5), and The Mask (E5) I was starting to gain in confidence – but time was fast running out. I knew that I was intrigued to at least “have a look” at The Complete Scream, although I thought it would probably be a route to return for on a future visit. But before that I had to on-sight the top half of the route, “Primal Scream” (E6 6b), the infamous bold wall climb, beginning half way up the wall, accessed from a belay in the corner. I had to abort mission on my first attempt as an afternoon shower drenched me and the rock as I prepared to tackle the wall. After an hour or so the crag had dried (largely) and I was even more psyched to get on the line. Finding more gear than I had anticipated, but finding route-finding to be slightly less obvious than expected I was pleased to on sight it, not least due to the slightly damp holds and crumbly nature of the rock on the difficult top-out. After belaying Miles on Primal Scream we decided to have a quick look at the Complete Scream on a top rope. Working from the top down, on an ab rope, to begin with the chalk-less mass of wall seemed desperate, unobvious and insecure. But after about an hour piecing together the immense jigsaw puzzle of holds it was beginning to seem doable. After my second go on a top rope I was hooked. There was no time tonight, but I knew I had to do it. Last day tomorrow! Meeting up with Ricky the following lunch morning, to borrow a couple of his sky hooks that he used on the first ascent I was genuinely excited about climbing the route. After a single, successful top rope I was impatient to jump on the sharp end -before the sun came round and began warming the rock. In an attempt to capture my ascent on the video of my tiny digital camera (with a maximum limit of 17 minutes!) I raced up the initial wall, placing several pieces of reasonable protection. Having not had time to practice placing the skyhooks I was slightly alarmed when my first one fell off as I was mid-move going past it, hearing the metallic tinkle as it whirled down the rope beneath me… Ooops I thought, “I hope that doesn’t happen with the next couple!” On reaching the final sky hook placement before committing to the crux sequence I was calm and relaxed, even enjoying myself. But then, as I began to move into the crux, my rope pulled sideways at the sky hooks, pulling them off. I just about managed to stretch out a limb to stop them from sliding down the rope and decided that it was probably a good idea to extend them some more… Realising I had no slings with me, and limited quickdraws, I began to make an ever expanding runner from what bits of “spare” kit (several Wild Country zero friends, with their tapes extended and joined together) I had left on my harness. Unfortunately this rather time consuming exercise took the remaining available time from my camera, but at least it focussed my mind! Feeling slightly better about things I yelled to Miles to give me loads and loads of slack as I climbed through the crux, so as not to pull the sky hooks off with the drag of the rope. The 58m route boiled down to just one single foot movement, briefly committing to a tiny sloping foothold, which always felt slightly “iffy” on a top rope, but on the lead it passed in a blur of calmness, followed immediately by a wave of excitement as I knew it was in the bag and I could enjoy the more secure series of 6a moves to the tiny “ledge” of Primal Scream above - despite now being in a ridiculously serious position! I felt privileged to have repeated and enjoyed what must surely rank as one of the finest routes of its kind in the UK. What a great end to the trip. If Fairhead was situated in mainland Britain it would be widely regarded as one of the very finest crags in the country. Many would argue, with some merit, that it might even be the best – go check it out! |
