James Pearson on The Promise E10 7A

James Pearson has sent us the following info and pictures about his new route The Promise, E10 7A at Burbage North, Peak District UK....
Eyed and tried by many it has repelled all suitors - i can even remember looking at myself when i was trying the route to the left and thinking 'too hard, way too hard' - and is a fine addition.

This shows the start of the crux. James making a powerful reach out right to a small, boney crimp.

"The route is probably about 9 meters, so quite short but it is very hard and has a terrible landing. It is about font 8A to top-rope the line in one (which James thinks harder than Equilibrium), with the crux being a set of very balancy moves on slopers, right up at the top.

Pic 2 You then reach from the crimp to a poor finger sloper.

I first looked at the line about 1 year ago and just about managed all the moves in isolation, but it was just too hard to have any chance of linking it, let alone leading it. I got stronger with a year of bouldering and sport climbing and started to look at the line again in early December. I managed to link it in overlapping halves and knew that it could be on.

pic 3

I then spent many days trying the route on toprope and had started to give up hope.

Pic 3 You shift your weight and slap into a bullet hole pocket.

I finally got good conditions, warmed up well and managed to link it a few times on a rope. I waited for the sun to go down, the temp dropped another few degrees and tied on. I used a single Infinity 8.2mm rope because of its light weight and handling ability.

Reach a pebble with your left, run your feet up high and hope you feel good for next move.

The lead went well and finally (and surprisingly) the climbing felt easy, as they always do. I topped out into gale force winds with a big smile on my face. Dave Simmonite and the Hot Aches boys were there to capture everything, I am looking forward to seeing the footage.

Pic 5. A long reach to a bad sloper, you must get your thumb on a pebble to make the hold usable. I fell lots at this move on toprope!

As i reached the top i realised this was definately the hardest route i have done and that even as a boulder problem it would be a solid proposition. But with an horrific landing and only an old 'slider' nut between me and that landing i figured that E10 was probably fair...

Pic 6 Very tenuous and scary match at full stretch. I fell even more at this move!!

And as for the future, who knows? I'd love to have a crack at Rhapsody (dave Macleods E11) and then there's always the 'impossible' groove at Cratcliffe...."

Thanks James - and for all you out there intrested in keeping up with James all i an say is 'watch this space....

James making his feelings known after his impressive ascent....

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