What Is A 'Gunks Tie-Off'

The 'Gunks tie-off' is basically a method of reducing the potnetial leverage on a Forged Friend when used in a horizontal placement that is not deep enough. For a pictoral example of this go to Forged Friend Placements

This method takes its name from a famous US limestone climbing area, the Shawanagunks in New York state, where there is a plethora of horizontally stratified rock leading to many such placements.

It is a simple but very effective way of extending the use of your Foirged Friends in placements where usually there would be a lot of danger. And although it came about during the period before flexible friends it is still a relevant and recommendable practise.

How To Make Your 'Gunks Tie-Off'

Gunks 'Tie-off' Cord Diameter

The nominal diameter of the hole is 6mm so you should be able to get 6mm accessory cord through. If you find it tricky to get the cord through a little washing up liquid to lube it is a good solution. I would buy 1 metre for each Friend, off which you will use about 65cm in tying the knot.

Alternative - If you can get it - Beal still make 5.5mm Dyneema cord. This is really expensive but is very very strong - approx 18kNs. It is perfect for the job as it is super strong.
NOTE: If you do use it you MUST use a triple fishermans knot with this cord as it undoes very easily. This makes the knot bulky but it stops it slipping - again a couple of stitches will secure it best.

Knotting

A double fishermans knot is essential and i would also statically load the 'Gunks tie off' with bodyweight to make sure the knots are tight. It may be worth putting a stitch through the ends to make sure they can't come loose...
NOTE: If you use 5.5mm Dyneema you MUST use a triple fishermans knot with this cord as it undoes very easily. This makes the knot bulky but it stops it slipping - again a couple of stitches will secure it best.

Length of Tie Off

I would try to make it a short as possible - so it doesn't get in the way - the one i have done is approx 9cm long.

The following pictures show some of these pertinent points:

Breaking Strain Of The 'Gunks Tie Off'

Accessory cord is tested as a single strand and 6mm accessory cord will be rated at around 7.5kN - however this is for a single strand of cord...so when it is doubled over and knotted this strength will increase.

NOTE: This increase in strength will not be as great as imagined as both the knot and the hole in the cam will significantly weaken the doubled over cord. Therefore in my estimation 6mm cord rated at 7.5kN should give you a breaking strain when used as a 'Gunks tie-Off' (depending on the brand chosen) of around 8kN.

Obviously it is critical to note that this is a lot lower than the standard breaking strain of a Forged Friend of 12kn...

Example Of Breaking Strain Testing

In a test at the factory i pulled 5mm cord knotted with a double fishermans knot to it's breaking point. Rated at 5.8kN by Beal as a single line - this cord when doubled over broke at 7.59kN.....this is above it's single rating but not hugely.
This was tested over a round bar of 10mm diameter. If one looks at the hole in a Friend it is approximately 8mm and does not have as neat rounded edges - this would mean another decrease in strength.
Thus my 'guesstimate' of 8kN for the 6mm cord.

Orientation - IMPORTANT NOTE

It is vital to realise that the Gunks tie-off can only be used one way up - and that is because whe you thread it the cord must go between the cams and the trigger wires. See Pic 2 above.

This means if you try to use it 'upside down' there is great danger as the cord will be outside the trigger wires and can pull them, releasing the cams in the event of a fall.

My strong advice would be to make it work with the widest pair of cams at the bottom as this is the best position in a horizontal for any cam.

The picture below shows a cam in a gritstone cack making it obvious how it reduces the point of stress in a fall situation...

Gunks Tie-off in Crack

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