Zeros Friends Benefits

As this project progessed, it became more and more obvious we could do it and that these new cams Zeros would take things to a new level in a number of ways:

Size - these new Friends would take cams to a new level to the point where incredibly the smallest would go where a fat knifeblade would fit.

Flexibility - New technology was developed to provide climbers with total stem flexibility and complete control.

Control - We realised flexibility is of limited use without the control, but we acheived positive directional control of the cams through an innovative combination of flexible springs and guides.

Versatility - To complete the design of these exceptional micro-cams, they needed to work Trad and Aid and be able to be subject to the rigours of wall after wall - or fall after fall. They did.

Lightness - Reducing components, re-evaluating and going beyond the boundaries of current camming technology, created a range of cams lighter and more compact than anything previously imagined. A complete set (6 pieces) weighs 9.5oz (268gm) - little more than a single Technical Friend 4.

Headsize - The headwith of the Zeros 3 - 6 is narrower than their equivalent Friends so they go places Friends don't.

Dyneema Sling - The 10mm dyneema that Zeros come with is doubled over so immediately extendable without needing a quickdraw and is incredibly light.

Cybele Blood's Endorsment

Well known on the US scene, Cybele has used her very obvious aid skills most recently to partner Steph Davies on her attempts at the Nose, and her wide ranging uses of Zeros led her to send out the following endorsment....

Hello!

I LOVE your zero cams. I have done six walls and find them utterly indispensible. They are especially great for aiding where others would free... I am not a confident free climber and between hooks, HB offset brass nuts, and the Green Zero, have stayed in the ladders many times. I own triples of the Green, Grey, and Yellow now. I have bounce tested the crap out of the Green and it always holds. It > places very predictably well in lost arrow scars, and has always come out fine for me. I do not place it too deep for easy removal, as I trust the cam without shoving it too deep.

Recently I gifted a fellow who has done 45 El Cap routes with a Green and Grey, and he really likes them already, after one route, Atlantic Ocean Wall, with them.

Good work on these pieces. I have found the Blue and Red size handy in pin scars where Aliens did not even fit, on both the North America Wall on El Cap and Roulette on Leaning Tower. Yellow also has a lower profile than the Blue Alien size. My only complaint is that after many fairly reasonable placements they bend and stay all bent looking... probably still functionally ok, but a little disconcerting how fast they mangle.

I have never placed the Purple. I have often found placements instead for the smallest micronuts in situations where I was tempted to try the Purple. Every time it was this thin the consequences of a piece failure were very serious...I was already 5 or 6 pieces away from anything remotely fallstopper and just didn't have the nerve to even bounce test the little Purple. I have nailed, also, when it seemed to > be getting riskier than C3.

PLEASE do consider the Offset Zeros. I would LOVE such pieces. YES YES YES there is some market for such Offset units. Green/Grey and Grey/Yellow would be TERRIFIC!

Maybe the Purple/Green would be a bit scary for all but a few of the raddest folks... Thank you for your product, and your time.

Cybele Blood

....thanks Cybele..we feel the same...and just to say:
A. Unfortunately to make the lightest and smallest cams out there the components will mangle up a bit but don't worry, we've found they keep on trucking all the same.
B. Get that Purple placed girl....it will hold...
C. Sorry we won't be doing the Offsets for a while....

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